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Whether you're trying to comfort your own anxious dog in nervous-making situations or working with a new foster who's a shy dog or other dogs reacting fearfully around people, Treat/Retreat teaches an indispensable skillset.
Treat/Retreat does exactly what it says - it continually treats to allow your dog to physically retreat and make choices about being in comfortable range of people, allowing your dog to gain confidence and a feeling of safety.
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Treat/Retreat uses your fearful dog's natural flight response, gives them space and freedom to realize the choices are in their control, and rewards right choices to set them up for success going forward.
With this technique, you're not just throwing treats for positive association with your dog's trigger (new people, etc.) or to draw your dog closer, you're strategically tossing treats giving your dog an escape route and changing your dog's emotions to approaching you (or the new person/trigger).
image-panel**alt=image showing dog with text to not approach the dog, look at the dog, face the dog, or feed the dog**text=Wondering how to approach a fearful dog? The 4 things to remember are: 1) Do not approach a fearful or scared dog, let the dog come to you and work at the dog's pace. 2) Do not look at the dog in the eyes. 3) Do not face the dog directly, turn your body to the side and walk slowly in an arc. 4) Do not feed the dog, have someone the dog trusts feed them instead.
This "game" does not put your dog in a position he or she isn't ready for, while also using desensitization and counter-conditioning to help change your dog's emotions from fearful to feeling okay/comfortable/even content when encountering a new person.
With Treat/Retreat, your dog is not in a position of feeling trapped, conflicted, fearful, or stressed when meeting a person - it provides your dog with choice. And choice makes all the difference in successful progress for your dog.
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A couple things to remember as you work with your dog (or any fearful or shy dogs) using Treat/Retreat or really any exercise to help a dog feel comfortable and safe to interact with you/new people.
That's why the "retreat" part of this exercise is so important - your dog is always in charge of the choice and gradually controlling the distance that's comfortable to him or her.
Let's jump into learning and practicing Treat/Retreat with your dog. (I'm using "your dog" as shorthand but you can follow these steps with any fearful dog you're working with to gain confidence and ease, whether a new dog to your home, a foster, a dog in rescue, etc.)
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You're working with one of the strongest emotions - fear - so changing how your dog sees the world is a big ask. So bring out the best, most valuable treats in your dog's eyes. That means small, soft pieces of real chicken, deli meat, or training treats made of the same type of good, smelly stuff.
If you have to work outside and the space isn't enclosed, you can use a super long leash (15+ feet long) for safety but make sure it's not in the way or actively held. You want your dog to feel free to move around at will and feel in control of distance from trigger-people.
Throwing past your dog keeps your dog at a comfortable distance and then the choice is his/hers to come back toward you for more treats/positive reinforcement for staying calm and getting used to choosing comfortable proximity to the trigger-person.
Body language is an important communication from your dog during this entire process. A cowering dog is a clear sign that every movement on your part, including giving treats, has to be done as gently and quietly as possible.
By stress signals, we mean any dog behavior that indicates your dog's fear even in nuanced ways. Most dogs show a range of discomfort indicators. A frightened dog behavior can be obvious like aggressive-looking barking but also subtle like "whale eyes" (showing the whites) or tense-looking/not-soft eyes or ears or even rolling over on his/her back (which can be confused with an invitation to give a tummy rub). When your dog looks truly relaxed, you're ready to move on.
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Keep in mind that gaining confidence and a feeling of safety vs fear is a gradual process and success on any given day doesn't always translate immediately to another day or another person. But you are on your way to a happier, more secure dog and you have experience with what works. Consistency and patience help your dog's newfound comfort become a habit!
Note: in any session - on this exercise or any other - if your dog gets tired, has had enough, or is becoming too nervous to learn... take a break, let it rain treats, and start fresh another day!
Then you can work down to steps 10-16 where you walk around and help your dog feel safe to be near you or the other person.
After working with Treat/Retreat to help your dog feel comfortable getting in nearer proximity to people, if your dog is still scared being handled, you can always incorporate the Bucket Game to desensitize your dog to handling.
Now that you've learned how to use Treat/Retreat to help your fearful dog gain confidence and feel comfortable and safe, you're ready to continue on to other guides in the Anxiety Channel.
If you'd like to ask any questions about Treat/Retreat or any other training questions, hop over to the Anxiety Channel for answers from any of the Dogly Training Advocates who are all certified dog trainers in the Community discussion or start any of the step-by-step guides.
And if you ever need more personalized training help, please reach out!
DISCLAIMER: The content of this website and community is based on the research, expertise, and views of each respective author. Information here is not intended to replace your one-on-one relationship with your veterinarian, but as a sharing of information and knowledge to help arm dog parents to make more informed choices. We encourage you to make health care decisions based on your research and in partnership with your vet. In cases of distress, medical issues, or emergency, always consult your veterinarian.